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Sissy Crag Bouldering Guide
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Location: Turn off Warringah Rd, Forestville, into Ryrie Ave and then take the first left which is Bridgeview Crescent. Park at the end of Bridgeview Crescent and follow the track down the hill just right of the gate. The track doubles back and you'll come across a big south-west facing cave, this is it. |
Problems: Only the most classic, obvious problems are described from left to right along the cliff and they don't adhere to any no matching or no heel-hooking rules. Specific beta is given using "L" to denote left-hand, "R" to denote R hand and "M" to denote match, only so far as to help understand where the problem starts (specific holds!) and finishes (always matched!) and as a guide for the easiest (original?) way to do the problem. Feel free to use any sequence (or holds) that you desire in-between.
The Traverse V4 - M4,
R10, M10, R9, M9, etc Start on the finishing jug of Penis Cling and traverse rightwards to the chin-up bar (see below). Penis Cling V8 - L1, R2, L3,
R4, M4 (FA: Pete Balint) Summer Night City V7 -
L5, R6, R7, R8, L7, R9, M9, L10, M10 (FA: Rob
LeBreton) |
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Rigid Fist Up Bum V4/5 -
M1, L2, R3, L4, M4 Don't miss the knee bar. The
House With No Steps V5 - M4, R5, L6, L7 |
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Bowels of the Devil V10 - L0,
R3, L4, R5, M5 (FA: Pete Balint) A phenomenally dynamic problem that is waiting for the "matched" start. Silent Bob V10 - M1,
R2, L3, M3, R4, L5, M5 (FA: Tim O'Neill) Souvalaki V4
- M6, R7, M7, R8, L9, M9 (Chin-up Bar) Not for Sissies V9
- M9 (Chin-up Bar), edge 7ft up (FA: Dave Browning) |
|
Dentalectomy V4 - M1,
L2, M2, L3, M3, L4, R5, M5 Fantastic slopers with a dramatic finish. |
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Warm-up V0 - M1,
L2, R3, L4, M4 (continue to 7 if you dare!) Good warm-up for the fingers and back. Glad-he-ate-her
V5
- M5, L6, R7, M7 (FA: Big John) |
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Tell Someone Who Cares V6/7
- M1, R2, M2, R3, M3, R4, M4 For the tall ... Bill
Smith V1 - M5, R6, M6, R7, L3, R4, M4 |
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Mr Smiley V6 - M1,
R2, L3, R4, L5, M5, R6, M6 Start low and left with your right in the 3/4 finger pocket and lunge for the first hold. Foam V5 - L7, R8, R9, M9, R10,
M10, R11, L12, M12 |
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Vitamin C V6 - M1,
R2, M2, R3, M3, R4, M4, R5, M5 Everyone falls off the last slap move. Hands Off My Detonator V8/9 - L6,
R7, R8, L9, R10, L4, R5, M5 (FA: Rob LeBreton) Travis V7/8 - M11,
L12, L10, R4, L13, M13 (FA: Pete Balint) |
|
Our Man From Havana V3/7
- M1, R2, R3, L4, M4 But you thought you were good at gastons ... The
Pillar V1 - M5, R6, L3,
R7, L8, M8 Copacabana V2 - M5, R6, L7,
R12, M12 Storm Trooper V7 -
M9, L10, R11, L12, M12 |
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Verboten V3 - M1,
R2, L3, R4, M4 Classic. I do, I do,
I do V7 - L5, R6, R2, L4, M4 Pants On (variant) V5
- L7, R8, L9, R10, L11, R12, M12 Ladders V3 - L7, R8,
R9, L10, R13, L12, M12 |
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Nuclear Winter V4 - L1,
R2, R3, L4, R5, M5 45 degree wall classic. All
Guns Blazing V4 - L6, R7, L8, L9, R10, M10 Blitzkrieg (aka Heavens Gate?)
V6/7 - M11, R12, L7, R6, M6, R3, L4, R5, M5 |
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Steve Austin V10 - M1,
R2, L3, R4, L2, L5, R6, M6 (FA: Paul Westwood) Bicep hell. Burst V7
- R10, L13, R14, L15, M15, L16, L6, M6 Mike's Five V5 - M8,
L8, R9, L10, R11, L12, M12 |