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Sissy Crag Bouldering Guide

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Location: Turn off Warringah Rd, Forestville, into Ryrie Ave and then take the first left which is Bridgeview Crescent. Park at the end of Bridgeview Crescent and follow the track down the hill just right of the gate. The track doubles back and you'll come across a big south-west facing cave, this is it.

Problems: Only the most classic, obvious problems are described from left to right along the cliff and they don't adhere to any no matching or no heel-hooking rules. Specific beta is given using "L" to denote left-hand, "R" to denote R hand and "M" to denote match, only so far as to help understand where the problem starts (specific holds!) and finishes (always matched!) and as a guide for the easiest (original?) way to do the problem. Feel free to use any sequence (or holds) that you desire in-between.

The Traverse V4 - M4, R10, M10, R9, M9, etc
Start on the finishing jug of Penis Cling and traverse rightwards to the chin-up bar (see below).

Penis Cling V8 - L1, R2, L3, R4, M4 (FA: Pete Balint)
Harder without the crafty heel-hook to start next to the left undercling L1.

Summer Night City V7 - L5, R6, R7, R8, L7, R9, M9, L10, M10 (FA: Rob LeBreton)
Harder if you only use L5 as an undercling (ie. not a pinch).

Rigid Fist Up Bum V4/5 - M1, L2, R3, L4, M4
Don't miss the knee bar.

The House With No Steps V5 - M4, R5, L6, L7
Foot free problem and try to hold the finish for a while.

Bowels of the Devil V10 - L0, R3, L4, R5, M5 (FA: Pete Balint)
A phenomenally dynamic problem that is waiting for the "matched" start.

Silent Bob V10 - M1, R2, L3, M3, R4, L5, M5 (FA: Tim O'Neill)
Superb problem using all the tricks in the book but it is usually wet.

Souvalaki V4 - M6, R7, M7, R8, L9, M9 (Chin-up Bar)
Burly start to pleasant finish.

Not for Sissies V9 - M9 (Chin-up Bar), edge 7ft up (FA: Dave Browning)
Dyno from the chin-up bar directly to the edge 7ft up without using the undercling.

Dentalectomy V4 - M1, L2, M2, L3, M3, L4, R5, M5
Fantastic slopers with a dramatic finish.
Warm-up V0 - M1, L2, R3, L4, M4 (continue to 7 if you dare!)
Good warm-up for the fingers and back.

Glad-he-ate-her V5 - M5, L6, R7, M7 (FA: Big John)
You'll get used to watching your hand slide off the last hold!

Tell Someone Who Cares V6/7 - M1, R2, M2, R3, M3, R4, M4
For the tall ...

Bill Smith V1 - M5, R6, M6, R7, L3, R4, M4
Easiest problem at the crag and also one of the best!

Mr Smiley V6 - M1, R2, L3, R4, L5, M5, R6, M6
Start low and left with your right in the 3/4 finger pocket and lunge for the first hold.

Foam V5 - L7, R8, R9, M9, R10, M10, R11, L12, M12
Classic powerful problem.

Vitamin C V6 - M1, R2, M2, R3, M3, R4, M4, R5, M5
Everyone falls off the last slap move.

Hands Off My Detonator V8/9 - L6, R7, R8, L9, R10, L4, R5, M5 (FA: Rob LeBreton)
Holds are getting smaller and smaller ...

Travis V7/8 - M11, L12, L10, R4, L13, M13 (FA: Pete Balint)
Footwork is the key to this one.

Our Man From Havana V3/7 - M1, R2, R3, L4, M4
But you thought you were good at gastons ...

The Pillar V1 - M5, R6, L3, R7, L8, M8
Classic balancy problem.

Copacabana V2 - M5, R6, L7, R12, M12
Classic balancy problem.

Storm Trooper V7 - M9, L10, R11, L12, M12
Control that swing.

Verboten V3 - M1, R2, L3, R4, M4
Classic.

I do, I do, I do V7 - L5, R6, R2, L4, M4
Body tension now ...

Pants On (variant) V5 - L7, R8, L9, R10, L11, R12, M12
Unbelievable drop-knee required.

Ladders V3 - L7, R8, R9, L10, R13, L12, M12
Watch the last move.

Nuclear Winter V4 - L1, R2, R3, L4, R5, M5
45 degree wall classic.

All Guns Blazing V4 - L6, R7, L8, L9, R10, M10
Get a swing going ...

Blitzkrieg (aka Heavens Gate?) V6/7 - M11, R12, L7, R6, M6, R3, L4, R5, M5
Hard first move but it's worth it!

Steve Austin V10 - M1, R2, L3, R4, L2, L5, R6, M6 (FA: Paul Westwood)
Bicep hell.

Burst V7 - R10, L13, R14, L15, M15, L16, L6, M6
Sloping madness.

Mike's Five V5 - M8, L8, R9, L10, R11, L12, M12
Watch your tendons!