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Lot 33 Bouldering Guide

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Location: Turn into Illaroo Rd off the Princes Highway at North Nowra, just north of the Shoalhaven River. Take the 2nd right which is Philip Rd opposite the church and just after the school. Take the first left, Castle Glen Rd, and at the end turn right into Jamieson Rd. Park at the end off Jamieson Rd, North Nowra and head down the path at the end into the Bomaderry Creek Bushland. Follow the track downhill for 100m until you find a small track heading right. Follow this track past (under) two climbing areas until you reach a huge cave with a big horizontal roof about 10m up. This is it. The bouldering gets harder the further left you go ...

Aspect/Rock: The cave faces N and is so large that it never actually gets the sun on it making it great for summer and winter alike but it is notoriously "greasy" outside of winter so add a few grades. The cave is large enough to not get wet in the rain but it does seep occasionally. The rock is sandstone and very few (if any) holds are chipped.

Problems: Only the most classic and obvious, difficult problems are described from left to right along the cliff and some of them are eliminates. There are plenty of easier problems to warm up on at the right hand end but they are not described here, just do the problems that actually have holds on them :)

1. Joe, Joe Dynamite V9 (FA: Joe Hoggson)
A big jump from a huge jug to another huge jug - the business is controlling the swing!

2. Pissy Missy V9 (FA: Paul Westwood)
Start matched on a good hold, go RH to sidepull, some funky footwork and then LH up to jug in roof. Up to the pocket and same move again to finish.

3. Un-named V13 sit-start (FA: Paul Westwood)
This problem goes out the steepest part of the roof. Start matched low on the horizontal rail then out to the LH gaston and then up to the RH 3 finger pocket. A big throw to the LH undercling pocket then up some good holds to a powerful finish at the big hueco.

3. Nappy Nuggets V8 (FA: George Fieg)
Diagonally up the wall to a tricky gaston move to finish.

5. The Crotty V9 sit-start (FA: Toni Lamprecht)
Hard first and last move with a big throw from the underclings to finish.

6. Stargate V10 sit-start (FA: Rob LeBreton)
Harder start than the previous problem but the same big throw to finish. Unrepeated since broken starting hold.

7. Klockwork Orange V10/11 sit-start (FA: Toni Lamprecht/ Paul Westwood)
More consistent start into the finish of the next problem. Recently upgraded from V9 following the broken starting hold.

8. I want to be a pumper V9 sit-start (FA: Joe Hoggson)
Start matched down low (not quite a sit start) for a big RH throw to a sloping hold. Then LH out right to sharp hold and again a big move with the RH around the bulge to finish.

9. Scrawny & Horny V9 sit-start (FA: Paul Westwood)
Starts right where the blue Lot 33 graffitti is. Awkward start to gain the sidepull/undercling with your RH. Then a long move LH to a shallow pinch, cross over with your RH to a pocket. Then up to the sharp LH crimp and a throw to the jug to finish.

10. Un-named V7 sit-start (FA: Unknown)
Head right from the start of the previous problem for some funky throws with big holds.