with Matty Wrigley
by Tim O'Neill © 2002 AustralianBouldering.Com
Ok, so who the hell is Matt Wrigley? He's bouldered what is arguably the hardest problem ever by an Australian and 10 other problems V11+ but he isn't sponsored and he's never appeared in any magazines. Prepare to meet one the nicest AND strongest guys on the scene at the moment! Some facts first ...
Height? Shorter than everyone else unless their on there knees
Weight? 64 kg
Ape index? Negative 1"
Sponsors? Whippet mountain gear
Favourite food? Bacon
Vices? Bacon, chocolate, beer and the love of a good woman
Now, first word that comes into your head when I say ...
Forearms? Four is better than two
Bondi Beach? Poo poo
Super-cala-fragelistic-expe-ala-dosious? A spoon full of sugar
Ok, I can't put it off any longer, the BIG question ... that Hollow Mountain Cave link-up. Tell us about it. Where does it go exactly?
It starts at Cave Bitch V12 which arcs around to join into Cave Man V10 for 5 moves and then directly into Dead Cant Dance V12 and tops out as for Rave Heart V8.
How many days?
In total including working Dead Cant Dance on a couple of occasions it took me about 11 days with about 3 shots a day at the link up and heaps of working the cruxs in overlapping sections until it was beer o clock.
What was the crux for you?
At first it was this pocket move on Cave Bitch but I found a awesome sequence so in the end it was just hanging on and trying not to make silly mistakes like falling off at the end or having too much of the good life the night before.
Like too much beer o'clock?
Yep, loads of beer o'clock with shaza and lukeie, mick and steve - those bad little bunnies.
I heard via the trusty grapevine that you can throw laps on DCD these days?
I don't know who your source is Tim but I can do the problem most times, but only in my power skirt!
A mini-skirt right?
A green vinyl mini, it matches my shoes and complements my eyes perfectly.
Not too mention the added "flexibility" it offers ...
And the cooling effect, I love the breeze factor. The only down side was
containing Silo's [Simon Weil], my spotter, excitement.
Now, I know you're reluctant to give it a grade with all the grading police out there but what do you think? Are you going to stick your neck out ...
I have been known to stick many things out at any number of times so there should be no exceptions and I would have to say that it is definitely a V24! Come on, do the math, 12 plus 12 = 24. In comparison to the other 14 in the cave (Eve Reve/Cave Rave) which I have not done, it would make sense that it is 14. So until it is repeated and the grade has a second opinion it shall be 14 ...
How about an easier question ... a name, and it better not be "Cave Bitch Can't Dance"?
Pretty hate machine
So, it has been touted as the hardest piece of climbing ever done by an Australian. What do you think about that?
I have seen some awesome ascents in the past few months by some truly world class climbers. Australia is going off at the moment. I'm just a little part of the pie.
Like what? Who's been impressing/inspiring you?
There's the usual crew of Pete [Balint] and Ange [Connolly], The Big Dave's, The Seth's, Rohin, Will, Cam [Barrie] etc. Then there's Sharik [Walker] the little punk roof master. In my opinion he is one of the best climbers around, he can climb the hell out of anything you put in front of him! Then there is Nath [Hoette] who always leaves me stunned. It's amazing what that boy can do. James [Scarborough] is such a strong young lad and is heaps of fun. He's always putting up heaps of new problems for everyone to play with. Can't forget all the other developers of new areas like Pete and Ange, Paul [Westwood] and Joe [Hoggson], you and the Dave's [Dave and Mike Kellermann] etc. The list could go on and on but the person who has inspired me the most, not only for her achievements and the pure enjoyment of watching her climb and tick routes, but for the amount of energy she puts into her climbing, is Sam Berry. You are awesome, thank you.
Now people might think you've come out of nowhere. Haven't you climbed a stack of 12s and 11s of all styles as well and in pretty quick time?
If I am inspired by a line or a move on a problem it motivates me to go at it and keep on going at it and if I'm with someone who is just as excited about the problem as I am it is unbelievable what you can do! And yes sometimes they are 11 or 12's.
Good answer. So why not any 13s? Don't the current few inspire you?
I have been on 2 13s. Both are short and pack a punch but I will continue to try them when I am in their respective areas.
Ammagamma and Genesis
So how come you've slipped under the radar in the past? I mean a guy who wears mini-skirts can't be that shy can he?
I just do my own thing with a bunch of nice people and have fun. The skirt was a present from Aaron [Liu] and it would of been rude for me not to wear it
Ok, some standard questions ... what motivates you?
I draw my motivation from the people I am climbing with and the way a problem climbs. My basic philosophy is "IF IT FEELS GOOD DO IT".
Favourite bouldering area?
Armidale by far. It's awesome! Benno [Christian of uncarvedblock], you're a legend.
Myology [V12 in the Blue Mountains] at the moment but for years it was Aint no easy win [V8 at Akuna Bay] but Myology is an excellent line that's all go. Nice one Jimmy Jams [James Scarborough who got the FA].
How did you get into bouldering?
I just got lazy.
No come on. Did you used to route climb?
I started climbing trad routes and then got into sport climbing before I had a year off chasing a wonderful girl. When I returned to climbing I started to boulder as "training for climbing" and it just took over. I still occasionally get on a rope and have a bit of a go but bouldering is where it's at for me at the moment.
Where did you start bouldering?
I started bouldering indoors at the Northern Beaches Rockhouse but Sissy Crag was my first real experience at bouldering.
Goals for the future?
That's a definite "father" question so you'll get the same answer - I'll let you know tommorrow.
Eat, drink and be merry. Oh yeah, and climb lots!
God these are boring questions! Ok, let's get fiesty ... Some of your repeats are pretty impressive given that you're "short and sweet". I mean Woolly Jumper V10 and Icarus V11 are pretty reachy. What do you say to people who bitch about things being too reachy?
Yes these questions are boring and seems strange that I'm being interviewed for climbing a bit of rock but ce la vie ... so in response to your question. Don't give up. In most cases there is an alternative way and if you feel there isn't don't worry there is shit loads of other climbing to be done. Leave and come back to it ... or grow.
And what about people who just boulder steep?
It's all good. they're all gay of course though.
So, how did you get your forearms SOOO big?
I'm a chronic ambidextrous wanker.
So you're single then?
Give us your 25 word personals add then and I'll see what I can do ...
Hi, wanna bit? Loads of cash and a sweet ass ready for some love'n. If this sounds like you drop me an E. Sorry no ugly chicks
Ok, everyone now you know who Matt is! Ladies and Fellas send your vital stats to [email protected] and i'll be sure to forward them on to him! It's not looking too promising though ...